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måndag 24 december 2018

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2018


Picture: This years pretty
Christmas tree
before it get dressed up
Photo: Parfumista (c)
The Scent of Christmas Eve 2018 is Rubj Extrait in honour to it's creator Vero Kern who passed away last week. Vero was so kind, nice  and commited to the art of perfume and I hope that
her unique creations will be continued in production as Vero:s fragrances have to be experienced by
every true parfumista.  As Christmas this year actually is white with snow and  ca - 8 C degrees outside, the glowing, orange, white flowers, light spice of  Rubj  is the perfect warmer.  Yesterday I worn the fab Veroprofumo  Onda Extrait one of the best in the retro genre with its barnyard, soil, damp grass, leather vetiver accord.

Mr Parfumista is wearing  Eau d'Italie Bois d’Ombrie an almost fresh, chilly, woody scent with a pleasant vetiver/whiskey/tobacco/leather accord, inspired of the umbrian forest a rainy day. Eau d'Italie  Sienne l'Hiver would of course have suited even better, but B d'O fit well together with the greenery of the fresh Christmas tree.
 
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last fiftheen Christmas Eves:

2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)
2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)
2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)
2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)
2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)
2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)
2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)
2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)
2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

Wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas! 


Picture: And here it's dressed up
for Christmas Eve
Photo: Parfumista (c)
 

måndag 11 september 2017

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Fraiche Passiflore

 Picture: A great Passionflower 
Photo: Simon Rudolf (cc)
Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Scroll down for an english version. This is from the unpublished archives, ca 2011.
Håll i er alla parfymsnobbar: MPG:s Fraiche Passiflore är något så hemskt som en fruity-floral! Men en hemskt trevlig fruity-floral och inte alls en sådan där generisk, klonad, massmarknadsprodukt som man normalt associerar med begreppet. Nej, Jean Laportes passionfruktsblommedoft med jasmin och persika har en helt annan klass. Det finns ju faktiskt fruktiga floraler som är jättebra, både bland niche och i designerdoftssortimentet. Frukt ihop med blomma blir precis lika bra ihop som tillexempel gräs och blomma bara parfymören komponerar med känsla och bra ingredienser används.

Så är fallet i Fraiche Passiflore som även om den inte tillhör MPG:s mer avancerade dofter i sin relativa enkelhet är riktigt originell, uppiggande och ger en viss spänning trots att den har rätt lite av den så för äldre MPG:s i bakgrunden lurande "skankynessen". Fraiche Passiflore inleds med en massiv dos persika och passionsfrukt. I det här stadiet är den nästan lite för söt men det går över när den MPG-gröna jasminen inträder och balanserar upp det hela. I den här fasen påminner passionsfruktnoten mycket om dito i Vero Kerns Edp-versionerna av Rubj, Kiki och Onda. Dessa tre dofter har genom adderandet av passionsnoten fått en gemensam aura som påminner om utstrålningen i Fraiche Passiflore. Även MPG:s egna fina Rose Muskissime har en mindre dos av passionsblomman, en not som uppenbarligen borde användas mer med hänsyn till de godingar till dofter som jag precis räknat upp. I FP:s notlista finns också spansk peppar, en not som jag inte känner direkt men säkert tar ut en del av sötman för i mellanregistret har FP stramat till sig. Sedan fortsätter den i samma stil ned i basen där den MPG typsiska lortmysken lurar men här i en ganska tvättad version. Dessutom finns en kittig not i basen. I basen påminner FP så otroligt om en doft som jag upplevt som liten, någons parfym eller någon hudcreme. Om FP skulle ges en färg så är den definitivt starkt orange för mig och den utstrålar glädje och värme.

Fraiche Passiflore är den perfekta, eleganta, fruity-floralen och den är som gjuten för cocktails ljumma sommarkvällar. Men den passar också för att pigga upp om vintern, faktum är att jag bar den ett par dagar före julafton, bland annat på årets mörkaste dag. Kanske en omedveten manifestation av att "nu vänder det". Men eftersom baksidan med FP är att den har en sämre hållbarhet under dagen än de flesta andra av mig testade MPG:s så passar den bättre på vintern eftersom dofterna inte radierar lika snabbt från bäraren i kyla som i värme.

Hold on all perfumesnobs: MPG's Fraiche Passiflore is something as awful as a fruity-floral! But a terribly nice fruity-floral, not one of those generic, cloned, mass-market products that's generally is associated with the fruity-floral concept. No, Jean Laportes passionflower brew with jasmine and peach has a completely different class and proof that there's really fruity florals which is very good both in the niche and the designer fragrance range. Fruit with flowers is just as well together such as grass and flowers. What's matter ist that the perfumer composes with a feeling, that the blend is balanced and good ingredients are used. And of course, that the production over the years is true to the original or if reformulatad, reformulation is done true of the spirit of the original.

In the case of Fraiche Passiflore, even if the fragrance does not belong to more sophisticated MPG blends, it in its relative simplicity, is quite original, refreshing and gives a certain exitement, although it has fairly small amount of the, in the background lurking skankinsess that is a sign of some of the earliest MPG's. Fraiche Passiflore begins with a massive dose of peach and passion fruit. At this stage it is almost a little too sweet but it will pass when the to MPG typical green jasmine enters and balances it all up. In this phase  the passionfruit note much resembles ditto in Vero Kern's EDP versions of Rubj, Kiki and Onda. In these three fragrances the addition of the passionflower note (and some other changes in the forumlas compared to the extraits) have lended them aura reminiscent of the radiance of Fraiche Passiflore. Although MPG's own fine Rose Muskissime have a smaller dose of passion flower, a note that apparently should be used more seen in context to the fine fragrances I have listed. Among FP's notes also pimento is listed, I can't smell the note directly but surely it rounds out some of the sweetness because in  the midrange  FP has calmed down considerably. Then it continues in this style into the basenotes where the typical MPG dirty musk is waiting, but in FP in a rather cleaned version. There is also a putty note in the base. The base of FP  so incredible resembles a smell that I experienced as a child, probably someone's perfume or skin cream. If  FP would be given a color, it is definitely bright orange as I'm concerned. The whole fragrance also radiates joy and warmth, it's definitly a happy fragrance.

Fraiche Passiflore is the perfect, elegant, fruity-floral and it is perfect for drinking cocktails in balmy summer evenings. But it is also ideal to brighten up in the winter, I was as an example wearing FP at midwinter solstice, 21 December. And as FP:s longevity is not as good as most of the others MPG:s it's of course better to wear in winter as it stays longer in chilly air. But this doesn't stop me to enjoy FP during the summermonths either.

Rating: 4

Noter/notes: Persika, hallon, passionsfruktsblomma, spansk peppar, jasmin, mysk, sandelträ/ Peach, raspberries, passionfruitflower, pimento, jasmine, musk

torsdag 13 april 2017

5 fragrances for Easter 2017

Picture: Violets in the garden April 10, 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)
Easter is here and so finally the spring, even if some snow isn't unusual around 1 May but it doesn't last then.


Fragrances for Easter for me are almost always from the following groups: Gourmand (reminding of the food especially the sweets for Easter), Incense (reminding of the religious background to the testive) and floral green (reminding of the vegetation of spring with crispy bulbflowers and violets). This year I am not going to be that structured, below my impressions of some fragrances I like and which I've worn more than once the latest months.
Picture: Marconi 3
Photo: PR Profumi del Forte (c)
Marconi 3 (Profumi del Forte): This is among the cosiest and most comforting fragrances I've ever worn. In the same time Marconi 3 has an vintage elegance, a skilful blended oriental-gourmand-chypre styled fragrance with prominent vanilla, spices and patchouly. Smooth and addictive, it always renders compliments. I'm not sure if Marconi 3 is still in the PdF line since they have switched to a new design of the bottles. I'm so glad that I bought a tester of Marconi 3 before it's (eventually) gone.
Picture: Musst de Cartier Gold
Photo: PR Cartier (c)
Musst de Cartier Gold (Cartier): A hidden gem, probably missunderstood, as it could be bought quite cheap from discounters. Gold is Cartier inhouse perfumer Mathilde Laurents interpretation of the classic Musst de Cartier (Edp I'll say as my Edt from the 90s is more herbal and with a light band aid note) and Musst is fully recognized, at least in the second part of the fragrance. The beginning is greener, sunnier and lighter, and the whole fragrance is sort of a luminous "sunny day" version of the darker and heavier "sunset" variety Musst Edp. Musst Gold is an elegant floral-oriental with the characteristic comforting vanillanote which is also present in Musst.
Picture: Sheiduna
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)
Sheiduna (Puredistance): Sheiduna only gets better with more wearings. It's a beautiful perfum, which conveys the warm impression of "sunset over the desert dunes". It's dry and spicy, mixed with some of the pleasureable patchouly "old, dusty books note" with hints of dark roses, anchored in balsamic, ambery depts. It has a comforting elegance and is delightful to wear.
Picture: Bracken Woman
Photo: PR Amouage (c)
Bracken Woman (Amouage): This is a very nice surprise from Amouage. A sort of floral, green fougere for women, even if it's unisex IMO. It's a bit strange and I can imagine to some noses, off putting as it has an almost chemical vibe which occurs now and then under the dry down. Bracken remins med of fern, moss, moist vegetation contrasted with berries and tiny little pale flowers in a forest in the early springtime. Excellent fragrance.
Picture: L'Attesa
Photo: PR Masque (c)
L'Attesa (Masque): Finally I've tested it, one of 2016 cult fragrances. And L'Attesa is (like most Masque fragrance) very good. It's a dry iris, not the roty carrot varity nor the flowery version, and has a very realistic sort of clean lipsticknote, the best lipticknote I've smelled so far. There is also an wheat or beernote in L'Attesa, a note which is also present in Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait and in a sweeter context in Mancera Roses Vanille. Not surprising, Luca Maffei is the perfumer of this stunning fragrance.

måndag 13 mars 2017

Parfums de Nicolaï - Rose Royale

Picture: Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Royale,
resting in the snow,
 reminding of the coming Spring
Photo: Parfumista (c)
Rose Royale is a celebration to spring, launched by Parfums de Nicolaï to Valentines Day 2017. This (pink IMO) rose soliflore is inspired of the rosegardens of Palais Royale in the center of Paris.

Rose Royale starts pink rosy with natural smelling fruity accents. The fruity notes are somehow almost dry in appreance and there is nothing too sweet or artifical about it. I especially recoginze the note of passionfruit but lighter and not as prominent as in for example Vero Profumo Rozy Edp or in the tribute to the passionfruit flower from Maître Parfumeur et Ganiter Fraîche Passiflore. In the topnotes also there is also a contrasting glimpse of the fresh, tangy nuance of blackcurrant as also the bergamot which provides the fragrance with a particular chic style. Coriander also brings a light green, refreshing spicy touch to Rose Royale, which togther with the bergamot, provides a slight retro vibe or perhaps it's more appropritate to call it timless.
Picture: Rose Royale
Photo: Parfums de Nicolaï (c)
Rose Royale is all about the rose flower itself, with no interference of stems and greenery. Its about the natural fresh smell of the velvet smooth pink rose petals. It's a bright but not at all shrill rose, it is happy and uplifting when waiting for spring in the last days of the winter. When Rose Royale dries further down, I can also recognize a more severe side of the fragrance, there are snapshots from a darker dept where traces of an accord familiar to the metallic, cold, bloody rose of Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin are hiding. This gives an intresting twist to this over all polite, refreshing, pink, rose. The roses of Rose Royale resting in a elegant, well balanced musky smooth, warm, woody base where also a very light immortelle sparkles..

Beeing an "easy to go" EDT aimed for spring, Rose Royale has a good longevity if liberally applied. I can smell traces on skin after more then 12 hours. It's a very wearble daytime fragrance both for work and casual. The sillage is somewhere between close and medium.

Rose Royale is something to tray for those who like a uncomplicated but still wellconstructed, rose soliflore as for example Annick Goutal Rose Pompon, Maison Francis Kurkdijan À la Rose and Téo Cabanel Early Roses.

Rating: 5

Notes: Blackcurrant buds, passionfruit, bergamot, coriander, rose, ambrette, immortelle, sandalwood, guaiac wood, musk

måndag 27 februari 2017

BeuFort London - Fathom V

Picture: Paiting by Albert Bierstadt
(1830-1902)
Fathom V is one of the (to my nose) two "wearable" fragrances from the line of the niche house BeauFort London, the other is Lignum Vitae. The first three releases ( 1805 Tonnerre, Vi et Armis, Coeur de Noir) from the house are very intriguing but to my nose more of fragrance artworks or scent installations than perfumes which could be worn in public. More about the other BeauForts will follow in next week.

 Fathom V starts chilly, crispy, green with a smell similar to narcissus but a bit more flowery, lily is mentioned among the ingredients. There are also green coniferous elements, like fir and juniper. Soon also a cold, earthy smell emerges, like the just thawed earth in late winter/early spring. This accord is contrasted with a glimpse of an animalic note which slight resembles the smell of cat fur. After a while a windy element appears in Fathom V, it smells like someone is airing out an attic closet in an old house by the seaside during a cold, windy day early in the spring. Something in the concept/texture but not in smell reminds me of a outdoor variation of Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve. Further on in the drydown, the fog is rolling in over the cost from the open sea. Salty elements together with seaweeds and algaes appears in the blend, and later also a hearbal almost minty note, shows up, clearing the fragrance up from the fog. The salt and mint slightly reminds me of another Perfumerie Generale  Harmatan Noir and for the airy salty vibe also Laboratorio Olfattiva Salina but Salina is warm in texture. The icy cold and dry lily is present during the whole dry down of Fanthom V and as it settles, there is also a moisty, mossy element supporting the green herbal accord sweeping over the scent of  fresh soil.

Picture: Fathom V
Photo: PR BeauFort London (c)
Fathom V, like all the BeauForts, is very intriguing and creates vivid fantasies and pictures for the wearer, in this case more pleasant ones compared to the first fragrance trio. It's my favorite from the house and I really appreciate it's shifts in different moods and nuances. The fragrance is an outdoorfragrance in the same spirit, but not the same smell, as the also earthy, early in the spring/late in the winter, fragrance Onda from Vero Profumo. That even if Onda to my nose is describing this season in the inland and the scents of Fathom V is from the seaside.  Fathom V is unisex, maybe a tad more feminine because of the lily and that the herbal element isn't the typical, harsh aromatic type. Instead it's sort of soft and smooth herbal which is unusual and Fathom V therefore is wearable fougere for woman. The fragrance is perfect for daytime wearing in late winter and early spring but could be worn year around. Sillage is medium and longevity very good about 24h.

One of the best fragrances in 2016 IMO, if I had sampled it then, it would be among the top three.

Rating: 5

Notes: Juniper berries, tangerine, black currant, green notes, soil tincture, thyme, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang, ginger, cumin, black pepper, mimosa, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, salt, incense, atlas cedar, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to review

måndag 4 januari 2016

Huitème Art - Shermine

Picture: Greta Garbo as Ivana Ivanova
in a gigantic foxfur in the 1930s movie
The Battle for House Burlesque
Sourse: Furglam.com
Shermine is the latest launch from the Pierre Guillaume subline Huitième Art. Perfumer is as always Pierre himself.

Shermine starts citric with a distinct element of the typical carrot irisnnote, which highlights the roty aspect of iris. Cold, spicy, herbal notes which are somehow enveloped in a warm, furry, setting, soon appears. The citric accord remains during the whole dry down but deepens, in an accord reminding of pickled lemons. The lavender which appears as a flowery element interacting with the cold iris, is concentrated and clean but not bright,. it's not as herbal or sharp that mostly is the case with lavender. Shermine in this part reminds me in style and apperance with Houbignant Iris de Champs. I don't know what the magic mix is which creates the furry, slight animalic impression, no animalic notes are mentioned in the notelist. Only the olfactory magican Pierre Guillaume knows. There is also a touch of a gourmand in Shermine but not as much as in the fruity lavender Vero Profumo Kiki.The base of Shermine is clearly woody-musky at the beginning, then it transforms to be sweeter and with a more powdery texture. Just as Kiki, Shermine is an intriguing and also slight demanding fragrance to wear. It never becomes boring and it's a pleasure to be wrapped in, one can imagine an exclusive furstole, lined with cool silk and warm fur on the outside.

Picture: Shermine, the picture tells all about its appearance.
Photo: PR Huitème Art (c)
Even if retro in style, Shermine is sort of a 2015s version of the legendary fougère Guerlain Jicky. Shermine hasn't almost any similarities, expect the lavender, with for example Serge Lutens Gris Clair which  features incense and is overall more contemporary in style.

Despite containing fougère accords, lavender and woods, I find Shermine quite feminine, maybe the furry and slight gourmand accord is responsible for that. Shermine is suitable for the colder months or as a evening fragrance. The silage is medium and longevity more then a day.

Shermine is definitly another winner from Pierre Guillaume, one of the very best releases in last year.

Rating: 5

Notes: Pepper, lemon, cardamom, rosewood, iris, lavender, vanilla, musk, vetiver, patchouli, guaiac wood.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 27 juli 2015

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Rose Privee

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Rose Privee is the latest rosecomposition from the classical nichehouse L'Artisan Parfumeur. Rose Privee is a creation of Bertrand Duchaufour and Stephanie Bakouche. Earlier rosecentered fragrances from the L'Artisan are the dark and dramatic Voleur de Roses and the rose-violet powder Drole de Rose. Rose Privee is something in the territory in between despite the pink, rosy packaging which indicates a light and sheer pink rose.

Rose Privee has one of the strangest openings that I have smelled for years which is definitly positive in my book. When described it will probably not be perceived as positive but it is as the fragrance balancing on the edge to smell unplesant but don't turn over to the wrong side. Rose Privee starts with
the for roseoil typical rubbernote which very soon turns to the smell of warm tires and then transforms in something similar to the smell of catpee in dry, hayish grass. If separating the notes in this cat-accord I smell mandarine, hay and basil and it seems as theese notes blended evokes this fatal olfactory combination.

Picture: Rose Priveè
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

After this nose-catching and challenging start, Rose Privee in its middlenotes becomes a more ordinary, rose dominated, floral (lilac, magnolia) musky blend with both fruity and herbal accents which creates a slight schizofrenic fragrance which couldn't chose which personality to be. In the basenotes there are dark notes with a dry patchouli which smell almost like dry tobbacoleaves combined with traces of basil  and amber. The somehow messy and uncertain impression of the middle- and basenotes unfortunately offsets the edgy start of the fragrance and lowers the overall impression of Rose Privee.  In the middle and basenotes there is something that reminds me of Vero Profumo Rozy Edp, probably the rose-lilac combo. Despite its messy character and the fact it's a bit annoying (the same phenomen as in Coqullite Tudor) I think Rose Privee is better than its reputation, it has got some negative comments in the blogosphere.

Rose Privee is suitable to wear for non-casual occasions year around. Sillage is medium and longevity great, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Basil, mandarine, hay, lilac, carnation, magnolia, may rose, violet leaves, patchouli, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 25 maj 2015

Ramon Monegal - Moonbloom


Picture: Moonflower before opening for the nightblooming
Photo: The Moonlight garden circle com (c)

Moonbloom  is created by spansh perfumer Ramon Monegal. Moonbloom is another Ramon Monegal exclusive for Bloomingdales in Dubai, see also Dubai Next To Me  for Bloomingdales in Dubai.

Moonbloom starts starts with sweet, creamy, white flowers where tuberose supported by orangeblossom dominates in a delicate mix,I don't know if there is any moonbloom within as I don't know how it's smelling. The opeing reminds me slightly of the old gem Versace Blonde, but more bright, clean and innocent. Moonbloom is quite linear in its construction and when Moonbloom has settled, it smells of sweet, honeyed white flowers inteacting with an light ambery smooth woody base during rest of its lifespan. The ambery, flowery aura of the fragrance, reminds me of the similar, but more classic in style, impression of Maison Nicolas de Barry Madame de Pompadour. Some darker passages are swirling up to the surface in the second part of the dry down, this passages remins me of the special almost inky rose, spieces, sandalwoody combination in Vero Profumos beautiful Rozy Edp. Another fragrance that comes to my mind is Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet but without the pleasant slight decaying greenery accord of the latter

To summon up Moonbloom, it's not an original fragrance as there are many in the same thick, almost tropical white flower style.The archetype for this style is to me a fragrance as Annick Goutal Songes even if there of course where other before that one in this group. On the other hand Moonbloom is very beautiful  and very pleasant to wear, smells wonderful. Even the picky Mr Parfumista commented in a very postive way on Moonbloom, and thats not happen very often when I'm testing new fragrances.

Moonbloom is an easy to wear fragrance, perfect for most occasions and is the type of fragrance which blooms and unfolds as best a very warm summerday. Longevity is for a day when tested under spring conditions ca 10+ C, silage is medium.

Rating: 5

Notes: Havn't found any notepyramid but I guess tubereuse, orangeblossom, rose, sandalwood, amber, vanilla. musk  are involved

måndag 5 januari 2015

Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Masculin Pluriel

Picture: "The Dandy king",
Joachim Murat (1767-1815),  King of Naples etc
Portrait by Francois Gérard (1770-1837)
Masculin Pluriel created by one of my favorite perfumers Francis Kurkdjian for his own house, is the masculine counterpart to one of the very best feminine perfumes of 2014 Féminin Pluriel. Just as the latter, Kurkdjian in Masculin Pluriel interprets a classical theme in a contemporary setting but still retains the timeless expression of the fragrance.

Masculin Pluriel starts with a beautiful note of lavender on a light, woody background. The lavendernote is the featured note during the rest of the dry down and it shows off a bit different at different stages, influenced by the surrounding and supporting notes. Masculin Pluriel is truly aromatic, lighter in the begining and darker in the later stages. The woody notes never get sharp or chemical and interacting with the herbal notes, the fragrance explore both dark and light accords, bitter and even if an overall non-sweet fragrance, there are some sweet elements, I can smell some woody vanilla, the vanillic note coming from wood, in the middle of the fragrance. There is also a very light, smoky element present in the fragrance but it's almost not detectable as smoke, there is absolutely nothing sharp or offending about it. The patchouli in the base are dark and desert-dry, like dried patchoulileaves, no moisty texture but anyway it lends a slight earthy impression to the mix. The patchouli blends perfectly and highlighting the deep and dark facets of the lavender, here the lavender reminds me partly of the lavendernote of Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait. There is something, the bitter, slight smoky impression, in Masculin Pluriel that reminds me of  the new By Kilian "extreme" Smoke for the Soul where Masculin Pluriel is the polished, elegant and wearable one. I read on Fragrantica that the fragrance trend for the coming years are woodsy and piny notes, as for example birch and likely  there is room for woody-aromatic fragrances in this trend which Masculi Pluriel and Smoke for the Soul could be some of the forerunners to. Another fragrance that comes to my mind testing Masculin Pluriel is the classic Aramis Tuscany (vintage) even if that one is bold and big compared to the former.

Picture: Masculin Pluriel
Photo: PR Maison Francis Kurkdjian (c)
Masculin Pluriel is an elegant, understated, very wearable choice for daytime officewear. There is something dandy-ish over the whole composition. The longevity is very good, for over a day and the fragrance is suitable for every season except the warmest summermonths. As Masculin Pluriel is a very well constructed and easy to wear fragrance, it should have been included in my best of 2014 list if I had tested it properly on myself and on Mr Parfumista before year end.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lavender, cedar, patchouli, vetiver, leather, woody notes

torsdag 4 december 2014

Coquillete - Tudor

Picture: Elisabeth of York, (1465-1503)
queen consort of England
Paining from ca 1500, unkonwn painter
Wikimedia commons
Tudor is said to be the last installment in the fragrance journey of french nichehouse Coquillete. There is no perfumer mentioned for Tudor.

Tudor starts with a pink,velvet rose carried by a fully ripe lemon, which create a fresh, fruity but not too sweet vibe of the fragrance. There are absolutely no harsh or sharp edges either from the lemon or from the rose. The rose smell  is the fresh petals, without the green leaves, steam and thorns.  One can imagine a noble lady relaxing a sunny, early summer day outside a heavy medival castle relieved that the "cousins war" or as we call it today, the war of roses was finally over.

As Tudor reach the middle, the rose and other notes mingles in a beautiful, creamy texture, smelling almost like the smooth rose-nailcream  (don't remember its name)   which my mother used decades ago and also told me that  her grandmother used. Going further in the drydown, Tudor suddenly becomes slight spicy and the pink velvet darkens. There are also earthy qualities apperaing, just as the moisty loam of the forestfloor  heated up by the warm sun contrasting the early summerlight and delicate green of the grass, bushes and  threes. In the basenotes Tudor continues in the light spicy, creamy style and also gets deeper and more balsamic in texture. There is a touch of amber added with light vanilla notes that together with the rest, creates a strange sort of  dark putty lipstick-accord, almost touching a smooth, dark leathery element. In this part there is someting (the dark lipstick) that reminds me of a pale version of the beautiful Rozy Edp from Vero Kern, part of the basenotes of that fragrance seems to be present also in Tudor. There is also a dark, slight herbal, medical note contrasting in the base, in this fragrance darker and ticker than in the archetype of medical roses, Parfume d'Empire Eau Suave. In the overoll context of the basenotes there is also something that reminds me of a feminie interpreatation of Frapin Nevermore, which I experience as a masculine rose. Tudor is, just like Nevermore, classified as unisex but to me it's much more feminine in style, for those who cares of genderclassifications. The longer Tudor dries down in the base the more sweet (like a deep dark frutiy retro candy note) but also, unfortunately, also indistinct and plain it becomes. The top-, middle- and early basenotes is the best and interesting parts of Tudor, in the second part of the basenotes nothing happens.
Picture: Tudor
Photo: PR Coquillete (c)
Taken as a whole, Tudor despite its shortcoming (compared to the earlier stages) in the late dry down, is an intriguing rose fragrance, developing from a innocent, creamy, pink and sunny rose to a darker variation with some not so innocent nuances. The fragrance  may actually serve as an olfactory portrait of the first Tudor queen, Elisabeth the Princess of York (the White rose) married to the Tudor (Lancaster the red rose) Henry, who bacame king Henry VII as the outcome of the civilwar and both parents to Henry VIII. Without any sharp edges and with its sort of retro sweetness, Tudor smells timeless and sort of mysterious natural, like a recipe of a brew  preserved since the days of the Tudors.

Tudor is suitable to wear year around, for any (non-sport) occasions. Sillage is medium and longevity for a day. This intriguing and timeless perfume also causing compliments to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Re rating 2018/2019: 4 + - this is a comfortable and easy to wear rose for everyday. It doesn't become boring, it has enough interesting twists. A rose suitable for fall and winter.

Notes: Rose, geranium, lily of the valley, amber, benzoin, soil, rosewood, labdanum, benzoin, grey amber, vanilla

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Tudor

torsdag 4 september 2014

Vero Profumo - Rozy Voile d'Extrait

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Rozy Voile d'Extrait is another version of rosy Rozy theme created by swiss perfumer Vero Kern. Rozy EDP is reviwed in the previous entry. The Rozy fragrances are inspired from the passiontaed italian actress Anna Magnani.

Rozy Voile d'Extrait starts flowery sweet, with a blast of natural smelling, nectarious tubereuse, supported by rose. The tubereusenote reminds me much of the honeyed tubereuse in the beautiful Annick Goutal soliflore Tubéreuse. Even if emphasing another flower, also Maria Candida Gentile Hanbury comes to my mind in the first stage of Rozy Voile d'Extrait, probably the honeyed texture. After a while, Rozy Voile d'Extrait turns in an almost animalic accord when a pleasant dry, furry, horeslike note appears. There are also some slight earthy, dirty notes contrasting the sweetness. One should not be sacred of the melonnote mentioned among the ingredients. It's not the despised calone and I can't smell it as a separate note. Probably it's just supporting and sparkles the mix up with some fruity freshness. When Rozy Voile d'Extrait reaches the basenotes, it is still sweet but more vanillic/balsamic/resinlike and darker in its character than in the earlier stages. In the basenotes Rozy Voile d'Extrait reminds me of another sweet swiss beauty, Andy Tauers Le Maroc pour Elle. Mr Parfumistas spontaneus comment about Rozy Voile d'Extrait smelling it first after ca eight hours after application; "it smells very oriental, as you have rolled around in myrrh".

Compared to Rozy EDP, Rozy Voile d'Extrait feels more natural smelling, darker and more dense, less radianting but not shy, like the though, natural looking sister that stayed living in the countryside, hunting, riding and breeding horses. Rozy EDP on the other hand, with its rosy-cosmetic style, is the artisitc and adventurous sister who moved to the big city, working with fashion, always original styled and never without makeup. Rozy Voile d'Extract is more conventional in style and it smell more similar to several other fragrances on the market than Rozy EDP with its (to my nose) obvious reference to the original Schaparelli Shocking.

Picture: Rozy Voile d'Extrait
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c)
Just as Rozy EDP, Rozy Voile d'Extrait has a good longevity, about 24h. The sillage is closer, just as an extrait is constructed vs an EDP, but it's no skinscent until after ca fifteen hours. Both Rozys are best for evening wear but lightly applied, they could be worn at daytime at least during the colder months. I like both Rozys very much and even if I think the EDP is more intriguing with its combination of notes and similarities to Shocking, the more conventional Voile d'Extrait smells just amazing on me.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, tubereuse, honey, blackcurrant, melon, coriander, nutmeg, labdanum, sandalwood, styrax, vanilla

måndag 1 september 2014

Vero Profumo - Rozy EDP

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
The rose variations Rozy  from Vero Profumo are said to be inspired from the intensive (to say the least) italian actress Anna Magnani and espceially the movie The Rose Tatoo. As usual the fragrances from Vero Profumo is created by the founder of the house, Vero Kern. Today my impression of Rozy EDP and in the next entry, Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

Rozy EDP starts with an accord that reminds me of the honeyed flowery/rosy a bit lipsticky in texture start of the clasic  Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli. But after a while Rozy EDP takes its own track, a delicious, fruity, golden nectar, honey and rose. The passionfruit, characteristic for the EDP:s of Vero Kern is deeper, denser and more gentle than in for example Rubj EDP or Kiki EDP. Something original with Rozy EDP is the mix peach, rose, honey and lilacflowers which gives the fragrance its own, original characteristic, its texture is almost inky and the smell has also some similarities (cold, wet metallic) with fluid ink. As a contrast, a soft, smoothing sandalwood is interacting. In the basenotes there is an animalic, dirty quality, powdery almost like putty in texture, a combination that I like very much, present also, but much more powdery, in fragrances as Etat Libre d'Orange Putain de Palaces and Huitéme Art Poudre du Riz. Overall, the resemblance with something that could be a contemporary and more sofisticated (at least compared with current EDT, haven't tried the vintage perfume) Shocking by Schiaparelli lingers during the whole drydown. In the basenotes something that  vaughely reminds me of a flowery version of Amouage Gold Extrait in the older formula is also present as also a resemblence with Antonio Visconti Rose Savuage.
Picture: Rozy EDP
Photo. PR Vero Profump (c)
Rozy EDP is a beautiful, retrostyled rose that distinguishes itself among other dark, dramatic roses. Longevity is very good, traces are left unfragemented almost 24h later. The sillage starts big but lingers to close and in the end to a skinscent. Rozy EDP could be worn year around even if I think it would be great for the colder season or for chilly summerevenings.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, peach, passionfruit, honey, lilac, hyacinth, tarragon, sandalwood, powdery notes

måndag 26 maj 2014

Rania J - Lavande 44

Picture: King Henry VIII,  (1491-1547)
Painting ca 1537 by Hans Holbein (1498-1543)
Wikipedia commons 
Lavande 44 is the lavenderinterpretation of Rania Jouaneh, perfumer with her own house, Rania J.
Lavande 44 starts with a natural smelling sparkling lavender highlighted by slight bitter, aromatic citrusnotes. After a while some spritzy green, almost like geranium appears, probably traces from the vetiver mixed with lavender and others. When moving further there is also an almost gourmand vibe in the fragrance, maybe the powdery, sweet tonka gives that effect. In the basenotes, Lavande 44 is considerably darker in character and texture then most lavender fragrances. The combined notes, creates a very pleasant leathery note and ther is also a pleasant almost sour note that contrasts the sweetness of the tonka been. The lavender is still present in the basenotes but not as herbal as in the beginning of the fragrance. In this stage it's much more intergrated with the other notes and harder to pick out as a separate one. In the basenotes Lavande 44 reminds me of a more straightforward Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait or Kiki Voile d'Extrait, the Kikis to my nose are a bit more complicated with some more layers in the compositions. As a great Kiki devotee I of course also like Lavande 44. Just like most of the other Rania J fragrances, Lavande 44 is in the same time contemporary and timeless, which seems to be a feature of the Rania J. line. Lavande 44 is, just as Rose Isthar, a fragrance that I can imagine whiffing by in the Tudor court, the pleasant smell of lavender but with something dark and dangerous underneath. Would have been perfect as a shared fragrance between Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn.
Picture: Lavande 44
Photo: PR Rania J. (c)
Lavande 44 is a lavender also for autumn and winter. It's close to the wearer and perfectly officefriendly. Longevity is good for a lavenderfragrance, over a day.

Even if Lavande 44 is darker and more dramatic, I think that fans of natural smelling lavenderfragrances on the higher end of the fragrance notescale, such as Maria Candida Gentile  Luberon  and Caldey Abbey Perfumes Caldey Island Lavendel (swe) would appreciate Lavande 44.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Bergamot, petit grain, lavender, patchouli, tonka been, oud, labdanum, vetiver, musk

Thanks to Rania J for the samples to try.

måndag 31 mars 2014

Vero Profumo Voile d'Extraits - Summary

Picture: Vero Kern with her Mito Edp
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c)
My conclusion from testing the Volies d'Extraits and comparing from my testing of the Extraits and what I remember form my earlier testings of the Edp:s is:

* The Edp and Extraits/Voiles d'Extraits are different enough to justify owning one from each category if you are a Vero aficionado.

* When it comes to the Extraits vs Voile d'Extraits there is more of a question which version to own, ie if you prefer you fragrance in the higher octaves or in the lower register of the scale.

Overall the perfumes of Vero Kern is intriguing, high quality creations with great personalities and the line is flexible enough to let everyone find his/her favorite version.

torsdag 27 mars 2014

Vero Profumo - Kiki Voile d'Extrait


Picture: Mr Dunfords Champion wirehaired Foxterrier
Arthur Wardle early twentieth century painting
Over the years, Kiki both in Extrait and Edp has grown to be my favorite fragrance from Vero Kern, dethrone Rubj to be number two. Therefore it was of course very intruiging to test Kiki in the Voile d'Extrait version.

Kiki in Extrait is an multifacetted fragrance with notes of lavender and some notes that reminds me of wheat and beer notes over a dark, fresh earthy accord in the basenotes. Review here. The Edp version is almost gourmand in style and the passionfruitnote contrasted with dark patchouli is more prounanced. Review here.

To make a long story short, I think that Kiki Voile d'Extrait is close to the extrait (just as Rubj and Onda) it just play one or two ocataves higer on the scale. The fragrance is brighter and more sparkling in its apperance and the lavender is a bit more pronounced.

All the Kikis are intriguing fragrances with new twists in each stage. Kiki is a demanding, stubborn, racy and energetic character which is never boring, just as the two (after each other) wirehaired foxterriers of my grandparents who were named Kiki.

Kiki Voile d'Extrait has a good longevity just as the extrait, over 12h. Nice to wear during autumn, winter and early spring.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, black currant, passionfruit; lavender, geranium, musk, patchouli, opoponax, amber caramel

måndag 24 mars 2014

Vero Profumo - Rubj Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Bayâd singt zur Laute vor der Herrin und ihren Dienerinnen
Bild im "
Die Geschichte von Bayâd und Riyâd" (« Hadîth Bayâd wa Riyâd »),
Maghrebinisches Manuskript, 13 Jh, Wkimedia Commons
Rubj Voile d'Extrait from Vero Profumo is, just as Onda Voile d'Extrait reviewed a few days ago, a lighter and brighter variation of the Extrait version of the fragrances. Rubj Voile d'Extrait is created by Vero Kern.

Rubj Voile d'Extrait starts brighter and fresher than more spicy and darker Rubj Extrait with its dirty notes of cumin. In the Voile d'Extrait, even if not mentioned in the notelist, I almost smell a note of a fresh lavender instead of the cumin. Just as in Rubj Extrait, the orangeblossom note is very beautiful, deep and full and without any syntetic wibes as in many orangeblossom fragrances. Also the jasmine is full bodied in texture, natural and blends perfectly with the orangeblossom. Even if Rubj Voile d'Extrait lays an octave or two higher than the Extrait, it also intermediate the image of resting on a couch, hiding from the heat at noon in the palace gardens of Alhambra during the days of the Moors in Al-Andalus. The Extrait is like resting in the same place in the warm and velvet dark evening, lighted by the stars, the full moon and the torches in the palacegarden, listen to the sparkling of the fountains and the music from the lute and other strings.

Overall, to my nose, Rubj Extrait is a bit more complex with its dirty, retro notes and Rubj Voile d'Extrait is easier to wear and could therefore be appreciated among a wider audience.  Rubj Voile d'Extrait is as indicated above, proper for daytime wear and the mysterious Extrait is better suited for evenings and nights even  if I don't care about such "rules" and wears the Extrait also at daytime. Longevity for both fragrances are about 12h, the Extrait a bit longer and the sillage is good, with a bit better radiance from the Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4+ (Extrait still 5)

Notes: Orange blossom, jasmine, musk, cumin

torsdag 20 mars 2014

Vero Profumo - Onda Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Onda Voile d'Extract
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) 
Onda Voile d'Extrait is swiss perfumer Vero Kerns of Vero Profumo alternative interpretation of the original Onda Extrait (released 2007). To me, the Voile d'Extrait is more similar to the Extrait then the Edp with its passionfruitnote which is the characteristics for the Edp versions of Onda, Rubj and Kiki.

In both Onda Extrait and Voile d'Extrait the vetivernote is dominating and in both fragrances in a different way than in most vetiverfragrances, especially the extrait is unusual. In both fragrances the vetiver is surrounded by spices, herbs, mossy and woody elements which creates the perfect image of the smell of early spring, when the snow has just melted and the sun is warming up the soil in the forestground. That was the situation when I tested Onda Voile d'Extrait and I took a walk around the small lake in the woodland nearby. Onda Voile d'Extrait matched perfectly as well as the drops of the Extrait that I worn on my left arm as reference. When comparing the two Ondas I think the Extrait is the more difficult of the two. The Extrait starts deeper, darker and almost animalic, dirty whereas the Voile d'Extrait is ligther and more sparkling, it has more of the fizzy gingernotes where Extrait has deeper and warmer spicy notes. The Extrait is more retro in style, with powdery, a bit dirty  notes and the vetiver is seamless blended with the other ingredients. The Voile d'Extrait is clearer, the vetiver is greener and more distinct and the composition is somehow fresher in appearance. I think the Voile d'Extrait will appear to a broder public than the Extrait which is more complicated and to generalize, more of a "perfumista fragrance". I like both versions but prefer the Extrait as it is more challenging during it's developement.

Onda Voile d'Extrait is suitable for casual daytime wear but it's also good for office. It's perfect for late winter and spring, the sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Those who likes vetiver fragrances such as Chanel Sycomore and L'Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vetiver Sacré, sharp, dark, smoky greens as Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver will probably also appreciate Onda Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4  (Onda Extrait still 5 just as when I tested 2009 and 2011)

Notes: Vetiver, ginger, nutmeg, coriander

måndag 17 mars 2014

Vero Profumo - Mito Voile d'Extrait

Picture: The great swedish soprano Birgit Nilsson (1918-2005),
maybe
the closest to a Diva we have had in this country of Jante. 

MitoVoile d'Extrait would have fit character as Birgit perfectly.
Photo: 
Gunnar Harnesk 1948, Wikimedia commons
The "Les Voile d'Extrait" sub-line from Swiss perfumer Vero Kern is another interpretation of Veros beuatiful perfumes and EDP:s Mito, Rubj, Kiki and Onda.  Just as the differences between the perfume and EDP line justifies owning both versions of the favorite, also the Voile Extrait versions are sufficiently different to justify owning also these. When it coems to Rubj, Kiki and Onda I think the Les Voiles d'Extraits are closer to the perfumes than to the EDP:s, the speical passionflower accord in the latter distinguishes the EDP:s of this three most from the perfume and the Les Voile d'Extrait-line. Mito EDP that is a later creation than the first three of the house is without this passionflowernote. But now to todays subject the stunning beauty Mito Voile d'Extrait.

Picture: The retrostyled bottle of
Mito Voile d'Extrait
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c)
When Mito Vd'E starts the round, sunny,  fresh citrusy note of Mito is clearly present but not dominating as in Mito EDP. Instead a beautiful tubereusenote is taking the centerstage. The tubereuse is the varm, honeyed, nectarladen tubereusenote of Annick Goutal Tubereuse which smells like as I image the tubereuse flowers on the fiield during the day, exposed in the strong sunlight. Mito Vd'E is very feminine (whereas Mito EDP is more unisex) and voluptuous, a perfume for a Diva, but not the heavy diva as Fracas. Mito Vd'E is more transparent in texture and somehow a retro but  in the same time modern impression is achieved. The flowery notes which are present in the middle notes of Mito EDP for instance the magnolia are amplified in Mito Vd'E and the interaction of tubereuse and magnolia reminds me of another fragrance which combines these notes; Arquiste Flor y Canto even if the magnolia is more distinct in the latter and the combination is soapy, which is not the case with MitoVd'E. Compared to the original Mito EDP, Mito Vd'E is warmer and much more flowery, the original is a juicy citron, with distinct green and also some slight almost herbal notes and a moisty mossy base. The mossy base is also present in MitoVd'E but a bit smoother in character, or maybe just dazzled by the flowers. To compare the both Mitos: Mito EDP could be the daytime version and Mito Vd'E could be the evening/more festive version of the Mito theme.

Rating: 5

Notes: Citrus, galbanum, tubereuse, champaca, hyacinth, magnolia, peach, cypress, labdanum, moss, musk